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Some guidelines for shaping/cutting carbon fibre items |
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GENERAL TIPS | When shaping carbon always wear a mask, carbon dust is not to be inhaled! | | Be careful when handling carbon-fibre round the edges due to the small splinters. | | Masking tape the carbon-fibre before cutting, firstly to ensure it doesn't get scratched when being handled, secondly so you have a clear surface to mark out your desired shape. | | For cutting long sections, place a jigsaw upside down in a vice then slowly and carefully feed the carbon through. | | The usual tools to use are jigsaw, drill (standard metal drill bits/holecutters), Dremmel, file and hacksaw. |
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 | | | | DASHBOARD BLANK TIPS | If replacing an existing dash with a blank, use the orginal to mark out template. | | When cutting holes for switches and dials, always cut from the front of the dash through to the back - pre-preg carbon can be prone to splintering so ensure this happens on the unseen face. | | The usual methods of affixing the dashboard to the scuttle are either rivnuts or pop rivets. |
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 | | | | BOOT COVER TIPS | This can be made in one or two pieces, it is recommended to use Dzus clips for fastening to allow quick access to the boot area when required. |
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 | | | | BACK PANEL AND TUNNEL TIPS | The back panels and tunnels are cut oversized, this is so you can allign the weave giving a seamless transition between the two panels. Move the panel to the left/right until the weaves align, mark the panel accordingly and then trim. | | Affix the back panel in the same manner as the chassis panelling. | | It is usual to affix the tunnel by tapped screws to allow access to the prop/gearbox should it be required. |
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 | | | | CYCLE WING TIPS | The usual method of affixing is either Sikaflex bonding or nut/bolts, or, a combination of the two. | | If drilling holes in the wings, remember to drill from the outside face. |
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 | | | | PANELLING TIPS | The usual method of affixing panelling is Sikaflix and rivets. We recommend using black pop rivets to be less visually obtrusive. |
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